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The two-week retreat from the peak proved very challenging. He pulled out the “sweat-soaked” tricolor and posed for the photograph that would guarantee his fame – a photo that would later be credited to Herzog, as if he had reached the summit and set up the camera alone. There was hardly any skin, and what was left was black.

Maurice Herzog (15. ledna 1919, Lyon – 13. prosince 2012, Neuilly-sur-Seine) byl francouzský horolezec a politik.


But to retreat meant abandoning Herzog to his fate, unconscionable to a mountain guide. He led the expedition that first climbed a peak over 8000m, Annapurna, in 1950, and reached the summit with Louis Lachenal. Lachenal faded into obscurity and died skiing into a crevasse in 1955. “Annapurna is a sort of novel,” he said. Some details of Herzog’s account of the summit day have been called into question with the publication of other members’ accounts of the expedition, most significantly by a biography of Gaston Rébuffat and the posthumous publication, in 1996, of Lachenal’s contemporaneous journals. He had served first with the Armée Secrète, then joined the Left-leaning French Partisans (FTP), captaining a high mountain troop. Herzog did not spare his readers: “Beyond my wrists and ankles I could feel nothing,” he recounted. Stand-up comedian who broke new ground with his television series The Larry The feat that made him a household name was the first ascent of Annapurna (26,545ft) in 1950.



In 1996, however, his unexpurgated diary of the expedition was published. He married first, in 1964, Marie Pierre de Cossé-Brissac (daughter of the Duc de Brissac), with whom he had a son and a daughter. He is a Grand Officer of the Legion d’Honneur and holder of the Croix de Guerre for military service 1939-45. He was a member of the International Olympic Committee for 25 years from 1970, and has been an honorary member since 1995. The pair duly marched on, Herzog almost in a hypnotic trance, carried by religious visions until the moment came when they stood on the summit and the euphoria was complete. Lachenal, aware of their need to retreat, fought to snap Herzog from his stupor. The French team’s ascent of 8,091-meter … Continue reading "Maurice Herzog Dies" “Today we were consecrating an ideal and no sacrifice was too great.” Blinded by “summit fever”, Herzog replied: “I should go on by myself.” For Lachenal, to continue meant the certain loss of his toes and an end to a glittering climbing career, something he dreaded. “My hands were in a terrible state. His war record, however, made him an obvious leader for the Annapurna expedition. Their team-mates Gaston Rébuffat and Lionel Terray whipped his hands with rope ends in a futile attempt to restore circulation; they would later be amputated in the field by the expedition doctor, Jacques Oudot. Share with your friends. Without diminishing the team’s achievement, it redistributed credit for the feat more evenly.

According to recent statistics published by The Economist in May 2013, Annapurna I is the world’s deadliest summit: 34% of people that have tried to climb it have died since 1950 (versus 4% for Everest); data which highlights that the ascent by Maurice Herzog, Louis Lachenal and their peers was one of the greatest accomplishments in mountaineering history. Maurice Herzog (second from right) with his Annapurna team (from left) Louis Lachenal, Jacques Oudot, Gaston Rebuffat and Marcel Schatz He was twice awarded the Croix de Guerre.
It also opened the door to the ascent of Everest three years later. Herzog’s romanticised account of the climb, Annapurna (1951), a tale of glory, comradeship and self-sacrifice, has since become the most popular mountaineering book of all time, selling around 12 million copies. Enjoy the best Maurice Herzog Quotes at BrainyQuote.

Nevertheless, while Annapurna may have strayed from a literal version of events, it spoke a truth about the appeal of mountaineering and continues to inspire generations of climbers the world over.

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10. August 2020
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