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The french side is included in the french national park of the Pyrenees, while the spanish side is quite isolated from any kind of village or human presence. Truly a pastoral scene.We reached the refuge in the time estimated in the book, three and a half hours. Suivre "refuge d'Arlet" Nous sommes maintenant au-dessus des nuages. A short way across the plateau, the path leads up through trees, to a track. It’s more like November the locals mutter, and the fire has been lit in the bar some evenings. Follow the road as it veers to the left and climbs towards la centrale d’Estaens, the hydro electric station, where you can park or you can continue to drive up a rough track for another 7oo m to the car park at 1350 m.A yellow signpost at the entrance to the car park guides walkers up a steep path through woods alongside a dramatic waterfall.
The farm dogs weren’t so welcoming and barked ferociously at us as we passed. We met a few walkers coming down from the refuge. Pour les autres qui montent au Pic d’Arlet, après avoir marché 30 minutes depuis le secteur au niveau du refuge de Gourgue Sec, laisser le sentier sur votre droite pour s’orienter hors sentier vers le Sud-Ouest. This is something we don’t always manage these days. The weather in the Vallee d’Aspe has been upredictable this summer, very hot and humid at the end of June/ begining of July then mixed with some hot days interspersed with cold and rain. This road leads down to an old SNCF holiday complex complete with its own station, now sadly derelict. The patou, a large white dog bred to guard the sheep, did not seem too perturbed as his flock were chased to the slopes on the other side of the lake.
The shepherdess and her children paused to call in at the refuge for a meal. Placed on the border ridge between Spain and France, Arlet and its neighbouring peaks offer stunning views of the Pyrenees and a beautiful ridge walk. Today the cabanes have been renovated and they have solar panels and satellite dishes. However, mid July we took the opportunity of a good weather forecast to walk up to the Refuge d’Arlet via Espelunguere. This is a famous cabane in front of a small lake, familiar from postcards taken in the evening with its reflection glowing in the sunset. Randonnée au Lac d'Arlet depuis les forges d'Abel et le parking d'espélunguère - Lac d'Arlet - Forges d'Abel - Espélunguère. A la cabane, nous rejoignons un autre sentier arrivant depuis le parking d'Espélunguère. Later we found out that it was a dead calf that was attracting the raptors in such large numbers.As we progressed over the Col de Lapachouaou we could see in front of us the purply red cliffs circling the head of the Vallee de Baralet. Approach. Après une croupe herbeuse, nous apercevons le lac et le refuge d'Arlet. Altitude 1960m: pour les marcheurs et randonneurs poursuivre le sentier du HRP jusqu’au refuge d’Arlet. A gentle downhill stroll takes you to the edge of the lake and round to the refuge.
The shepherd milking in his little shed called them back.The sheep spend the night in an enclosure, then in the morning the shepherd sits at the back of a small metal structure just the length of a sheep. Where there is no access track helicopters deliver supplies for the season.This was a wondeful day in the mountains, fantastic panoramas 0n all sides; a series of cols and changing views of the majestic side valleys of the Aspe, Belonce and Baralet with Somport in the distance and periodic glimpses of the Pic de Midi d’Ossau to the east. Nous suivons les indications du panneau. Although the walk is quite steep at first the rest is much gentler and takes one into the really high plateaus where for centuries shepherds have grazed their flocks benefiting from the summer pastures. --Sir Ernest Shackleton
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